Summer food

Tomatoes and corn, sweet onions, greens, soft cheeses. That’s what I’m eating these days. Here’s a typical menu:

Polenta with fresh corn kernels
Tomato sauce
Grilled fish or pulled pork
Greek salad

FullSizeRender (1)I make the tomato sauce and polenta, then serve them like this with, some protein in the middle (or not). See below for a peek at a wonderful gadget I use that stirs the polenta for me while I’m doing other things.

Here are some recipes:

Simplest tomato sauce: Sauté an onion, a little garlic, chopped fresh basil in olive oil. Chop about a dozen of the ripest, best tomatoes around. Add them in. If you want, puree a few more, and add those. More basil, salt, oregano. Simmer.

Meanwhile, make a little polenta with 4 parts milk, one part water. (4 cups liquid to a little less than 1 cup of polenta.) Stir to avoid lumps. Add a few tablespoons butter and kernels from an ear or two of corn. You can add a little cheese if you like it cheesy. Cook till creamy.

Serve sauce over polenta. You can add anything you might want for protein in the middle of the sauce.

Greek salad: peel and chop a cucumber into chunks, add chunked tomato, sliced red onion, some crumbled feta.  Sprinkle with fresh oregano, salt pepper, olive oil and red wine vinegar.

The perfect poached egg

eggI’ve tried many methods to poach eggs, but this one seems foolproof, from Julia Child via the NY Times:

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Have a bowl of ice water at hand. Punch a tiny hole in the end of the egg(s). Gently place the egg(s) into fully boiling water for 10 seconds. Transfer the egg(s) to the ice water. Crack the egg(s) into a small bowl and slide into the boiling water one at a time. Turn off the water. Remove when poached to your satisfaction (for me, about 3 minutes).

Update to the Great Turkey Test

IMG_0208_optBefore the New Year, I posted the results of my turkey experiments based on J. Kenji López-Alt’s ideas for spatchcocking and baking stone approaches. But for my last experiment, I combined the baking stone with a method I learned from the late Marshall Harrison, owner and chef of a famed Connecticut steak house (and my cousin by marriage).  His method was to put the whole bird on a rack over an inch or two of liquid in a tightly covered pan. The pan should be airtight–or at least have a very tightly fitting lid.  I bought a good tight-fitting large roasting pan years ago from a restaurant supply company. You heat the oven to 500 degrees, steam the bird, then turn down to 450 and let it brown. Continue reading “Update to the Great Turkey Test”

The great turkey test

I’ve been using J. Kenji-Lopez-Alt‘s recipes for some time now, since my son told me about the Food Lab and Serious Eats. This year, we had our holiday dinner on Saturday, but some family arrived on Wednesday. It didn’t seem fair that they’d miss all the leftovers, so I decided to make a small turkey on Wednesday, have a couple of days of turkey sandwiches, turkey soup, turkey pot pie, before the big day.

I’ve seen Kenji’s posts about spatchcocking the turkey, cutting the backbone out, flattening it and cooking it splayed on a rack over a cookie sheet. But he also had a post about cooking a whole turkey with a baking steel. Continue reading “The great turkey test”

Rainy Sunday

Here in rainless Northern California, I woke gratefully to the sound of rain.  The chickens may not be happy about it, but it is such a relief to be having a normal winter day. Luckily, in yesterday’s brilliant sun I did a bunch of yard work including cleaning the chicken coop, so at least they are cozy.

2014-02-01 08_optAnd they are laying. Here were the ingredients for yesterday’s breakfast, although I only used two of the eggs. It made for a delicious start to the day.

The wonderful, golden Cocktail Grapefruit are in season now, a very sweet grapefruit with a zillion seeds, but worth it.  Add grapefruit, and breakfast looked like this.

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Then I decided to try the hot and sour soup recipe from Serious Eats, by J. Kenji López. I was interested to try his technique for rapid chicken broth, which involves hacking chicken parts into bits, blanching them first, and then cooking with a hambone and  “aromatics” (onion, garlic, scallions, ginger).

It worked–excellent broth in a little over an hour, but it involves turning your kitchen into an abattoir, little bits of chicken parts flying everywhere. There’s a reason butchers are always pictured in those blood-smeared white smocks. Definitely not for the faint of heart.  Maybe Kenji knows a way to do this without the grisly bit dispersion, but if so, he doesn’t mention it. nInstead he says “Hack your chicken carcasses to bits before making stock. Not only will it make you feel like a medieval viking-style badass, but it’ll also make your broth come together much faster. The more finely you chop the bones, the more surface area they have, and the more channels for proteins, minerals, and other goodies to get extracted into the broth.” So caveat cook.

Because this recipe required a specific Chinese fermented rice vinegar (“essential to the flavor”), I had to head down to the Asian mall, and as it was Saturday and just after Chinese New Year,  I encountered a drumming, whistling band and leaping tigers:

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Very loud, cheerful and colorful, which made up for the crowds and the ordeal involved in buying my slim bottle of vinegar.

The soup is really delicious, if anyone wants a lovely rainy day project.

The magic of stock

imagesI’ve written a lot about making stock and even included a basic recipe, but as many of you are wondering what to do with that turkey carcass taking up a good chunk of a shelf in your refrigerator, it seemed like a good time to recap some tips for turning it into cook’s gold. This is really how I think of good stock, because it adds a depth of flavor to soups, stews, and sauces that you can’t get otherwise.

If you want a light stock, just break up the carcass and miscellaneous bones and cover them in water in a good size pot.  (If you like a darker flavor, roast the carcass in the oven first to brown it.) Continue reading “The magic of stock”

Another breakfast from the garden

Right now the garden is giving up its end-of-summer bounty.  This breakfast was potato, onion, garlic, and spinach from the garden, with eggs from the chickens. Only the mushrooms and baby fennel were from the farmers’ market:

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eggs_optThe plate below is Larry’s plate.  For some reason, his food always looks better than mine!

World’s smallest batch of jam

IMG_0977_optUsually making jam or jelly is a big production, bags or flats of fruit, a morning or an afternoon set aside. But one of the joys of a garden is grazing, and yesterday I picked a couple of handfuls of blackberries and a couple of raspberries, a little too much to eat for breakfast. In about 5 minutes, I made a tiny batch of blackberry jam, just enough to half fill a baby food jar.

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Then we had it with toast. Continue reading “World’s smallest batch of jam”

Pizza–delicious and gluten-free

batter crustMy friend Tung handed me a little baggie of garbanzo bean flour the other day, and told me it made a delicious pizza crust. Just mix it with an equal part of water, and let it sit a few hours; it should be the consistency of thin pancake batter. I used about 2/3 of a cup to fill a big frying pan.  (Whole Paycheck and other good grocery stores carry the flour, as well as Asian groceries.) Turn the oven to 425 degrees and heat a cast iron pan till it’s very very hot. Cover the bottom with a generous coating of olive oil, and pour the batter in.

Set the pan back in the oven till the edges are crispy. Meanwhile prepare what you’re going to put on top. When the crust is ready, it looks fragile but is really fairly strong. Make sure all the edges are really cooked through, not soggy.  The crispiness is the key. Drain the crust on paper towels, then put it on a big plate.

For topping, Tung favors carmelized onions. I did carmelize some, but added carrots, cauliflower, and snow peas along with fresh spinach from the garden.

It makes a fabulous, healthy, and very pizza-like meal.

finished pizza